Answer: The cost of a ticket issued for floating on the Buffalo River without a life jacket in your kayak.
Saturday morning, knowing that Andrew would be gone all morning to the 5K Color Run in Springfield and then be doing schoolwork in the afternoon, we decided to go floating, and since Bull Creek was low rock (details below), Scott thought it would be fun to go float the upper Buffalo, specifically putting in at Ponca, a put-in that is loaded with all kinds of memories for us. Let us not even mention our disastrous late March float back before we had kids.
Suffice it to say that on a lovely Saturday in April with the water at the low edge of “moderate,” several hundred people from a multi-state area had exactly the same idea, and they all converged at Ponca. Thoughts of tranquility and solitude evaporated, but we did enjoy the float. Much could be said, but I don’t have much time to write right now, so I will be uncharacteristically brief, listing only a few bullet points before getting to the jeopardy business.
~ When you have to line up to go through a rapid, there are too many floaters on the river.
~ It is possible to be the only two floaters (out of multiple hundreds) who are not carrying beer in your boat. Don’t ask me how I know.
~ There seems to be a high correlation between beer consumption and the use of foul and/or explicit language. It’s been a long time since I heard so many curse words and references to dimensions of bodily parts.
~ A number of people equivalent to the entire population of Newton County camped on the Buffalo between Steel Creek and Kyles Landing on Saturday night.
~ Having a Perception Dagger kayak makes you a stand-out among floaters. In addition to various foul (but I assume actually positive) terms, I was told I had a sweet ride. I agreed!
~ IF, in an effort to get some sun on your face and upper torso, you take off your T-shirt and lay it across your always-exposed-in-the-kayak legs and then remove your floppy hat and secure it under your kayak’s front elastic straps, and IF four minutes later your vessel makes a sudden intimate and slightly sideways connection with a large boulder into which the current has very forcefully directed you, and IF you maintain a firm grip on your paddle despite the shock of the incredibly cold water, and IF you holler loudly enough, and IF you stay upstream of the flipped kayak, and IF you don’t try to stand up in the rapid, and IF you keep your head up and your feet behind, and IF you use your paddle to maneuver yourself around various rock obstacles, and IF you keep trying to drift in the direction of less steep bank, THEN you will eventually be able to stand up and collect your breath enough to holler at a couple of the other several hundred folks on the river that you are okay and to please help your husband grab and flip your boat. BUT once you and boat are reunited, you will find that although your two water bottles survived the tip and are still in their holders(!!!), your T-shirt (easily replaced and no big deal) and your beloved floppy hat – yes, the floppy hat you have had for fourteen years and which you wear not only on all float trips but also every single morning of your life when you walk (irreplaceable and a very big deal) – have sadly both been sacrificed to the vicious river gods. Several minutes of silence and/or tears will ensue as you grieve this intense loss, and for the next six hours, you will find yourself peering intently at canoes, kayaks, floaters, bushes, branches, rock outcroppings, and logs on the slight chance that the floppy hat may have ended up in some retrievable place. Accepting the fact that it did not and you will never see it again can be challenging and may take some time.
~ If you stop to pee at the jumping-off bluff on the right, just upstream of the Hemmed-In Hollow trailhead, know that there is no cover anywhere, the area is criss-crossed with trails, and if you are wearing a one-piece suite with no T-shirt for extra modesty, should you fail to do your business quickly and re-dress with extreme haste, you will risk being met by four riders on horseback from the trail to the right, two dogs plus nine people from the trail to the left, four cross-country backpackers from the trail behind you, and six young children from who knows where and who are about to jump off that bluff. Truly, there are times in life when men definitely have it easier.
~ The trail to Hemmed-In Hollow is neither 1/2 mile long nor 1/8 mile long. However long it is, it is definitely worth the hike, but it would be easier to do in socks and shoes with decent support than in wet creek sandals. A walking stick is helpful, so I left one there for you.
~ The rapids between Hemmed-In Hollow and Kyles Landing are a bit more fun and challenging than those further upstream; however, the fun is somewhat reduced when one has to back-paddle like crazy each time to keep from running into the people ahead of you, who are in various states of inebriation and piloting various types of crafts (canoes, kayaks, a john boat?!?).
~ When in a rocky and shallow rapid, repeating the mantra, “NEVER get crossways to the current, never EVER get crossways to the current! Eat it!” can be a helpful reminder to do the non-intuitive thing of heading straight into the biggest cold waves and letting them slosh into your lap.
End of bullet points. Perhaps you are glad.
As we pulled into Kyles Landing, there were probably a dozen boats lined and beaching tight against each other at water’s edge. I have never mastered the beach thing; I have a hard time maneuvering into a tight space and I never land very gracefully. I was carefully looking for a gap between all the kayaks and canoes to figure out where to drop my little Dagger, when I glanced up and saw the beach four uniformed officers. They were in olive drab, with badges and patches and guns in holsters. “My!” I thought. “They must be looking for some wild fugitive.”
I landed my boat, and, since the gravel “beaches” are always uphill, asked Scott (who had beached his boat and pulled it up just ahead of me) for a hand in standing up. (My entrance to and egress from my kayak is never anything that could be remotely described as pretty.) “Pull hard,” I instructed and he more or less yanked me to a standing position. As I bent to retrieve my paddle, one of the officers (turns out they were a combination of Arkansas Game and Fish and National Park Service – the Buffalo being a National River) with a scowl on his face addressed Scott.
“Sir, do you have a life jacket in that kayak?”
Of course he didn’t! We don’t even own any life jackets, and why on earth did this guy care about that? He must be joking.
He wasn’t joking.
When Scott ignored his question, “Officer Mahoney” repeated it, in a very firm tone. Scott replied in the negative, turned away from the man and bent down to deal with our kayaks, but OM told him to, “leave the boat and step over here.” And when Scott hesitated, “Come right over here!”
I was unnerved. It was 7:30 PM, and we still had to load up, change into dry clothes, and drive an hour and a half home. We were beat, and now we were in trouble with the law?!? The conversation went something like this.
OM: Do you have a life jacket in that kayak?
Scott: Uh. . . no.
OM: Why not?!?
Scott: (questioningly) Because I’ve floated this river a lot of times and I’ve never used a life jacket?
OM: You’re still breaking the law.
(I was shocked to hear this!)
OM: You can’t just break the law because you don’t want to obey it. I’ve seen this river come up several FEET in no time at all and people get tipped. It can be very dangerous. It’s a law in the State of Arkansas that EVERY boat of ANY kind on ANY body of water is required to have on board a life jacket for every passenger. Now, who’s this lady with you?
Scott: She’s my wife.
OM: Does she have a life jacket?
Scott: No.
OM: So neither of you has the required life jacket?
Scott: That’s right.
OM: OK, then you stand over here.
(I went and stood beside him but said nothing.)
OM: Where do you live?
Scott: In Missouri, north of Branson.
OM: (disgusted with Scott) Missouri has the same law. Arkansas or Missouri, you’re breaking the law to not have a life jacket in your boat. You have ID on you?
Scott: (pointing up the hill) I do in my car, but not on me.
OM: You know all your information?
Scott: Ummm. . . ?
OM: Your driver’s license number, or your soash?
Scott: I know my soash.
So OM flips open his metal ticket writing pad thing and gets started. Scott had to give his name, social security number, address, place of employment, phone number, etc. OM kept writing and writing.
OM: You know, I said this just this morning, this very morning, that I wasn’t going to give any more warnings. It’d all be tickets. I give the same speech over and over and people just ignore it, so I’m giving them all tickets. I should give you a ticket. On a river like this with no life jacket! You see all these concessioners? (There were scads of BOC and Lost Valley trucks and trailers, some loading up to 16 rental boats.) They rent all these boats, and they are required BY LAW to provide a life jacket for every person. You have to do the same. (He kept writing.) You see this W? That means warning. This’ll be turned in, but it won’t go on your record. But you need to go to Wal-Mart and buy you a couple life jackets. Every person in every boat has to have one. You don’t have to wear it, but you have to have it in case of an emergency. And if you have a child 12 and under, that child has to have that life jacket on at all times. Only if you’re on a lake in a pontoon boat with a railing around it, the child can take it off. Or when he’s swimming, but if he’s in a boat, he has a life jacket on ALL the time. Now sign here.
Scott signed.
OM: That just saved you $155. If I’d written you a ticket, which I should have done, that’s what it would have cost. Now get those life jackets and comply with the state law.
I said, “Thank you, sir,” and we hauled our boats up the hill.
So I guess if he had ticketed each of us, we would have been out $310. All for breaking a law we didn’t even know existed. Well, I know that ignorance is no excuse, but I’m thankful to be able to say that I still haven’t been given a ticket. And I guess I need to add “life jackets” to my Wal-Mart list. Sheesh. I told Scott, “Hey, for our next float, how about we just do Bull Creek? It’ll be peaceful and quiet, we’ll probably see only three or four other floaters, and I’m pretty sure that there won’t be any law enforcement waiting for us at the bridge!
[Note: There’s a rock that I look at each morning. It’s in the edge of the creek beside the bridge, and I can tell how floatable the creek is by how where the the water is on the rock. “Under the Rock” = not floatable at all. “Bottom of the Rock” = marginally floatable, but with a lot of dragging (I won’t float it at that level). “Low Rock” = tolerably floatable. “Mid Rock” = good floating; full run (Round Mountain Road to the 160 bridge) in 3 hours. “High Rock” = really good floating; full run in 2.5 hours. “Top of the Rock” = great floating; full run in 2 hours. “Over the Rock” = flood stage crazy floating where you just flow over everything; full run in 1.5 hours.]