Leaving Ruby Tuesday, full and happy, we headed for yet another elusive target. Being slightly technologically challenged, at some point in our quest for food, I had given up on the Garmin and turned to something that is fast becoming obsolete: a state highway map made of paper; a hard copy. Now, I personally LIKE a paper map. I like being able to see the whole darn thing, unfolded all over my lap. I like to see where I am and where I’m going, and I like to discover all kinds of interesting things in between. The only thing I don’t like about paper maps is the fact that it can be very difficult, if not virtually impossible, to fold them so that the part(s) you need to see are evident on an easily holdable rectangle. Anyway.
We had set a goal to go through at least one tunnel while we were in the area. We were on I-895, headed roughly northeast – which is away from Katie’s house – and we were headed that direction specifically so that we could drive through the Harbor Tunnel, which runs beneath a finger of Chesapeake Bay. We do like tunnels, enough so that we were willing to pay toll to drive through one, and the beauty of our route was that, if we planned it right, once we went through the Harbor Tunnel on I-895 heading northeast, we could hopefully weasel our way back around onto I-95 west (and yes, I know that odd-numbered highways don’t go east and west, but I guess 95 is excused from that rule because it actually runs northeast to southwest, and the stretch under consideration in this post in fact runs due west) and drive back through a SECOND tunnel, the Fort McHenry Tunnel (which, by the way, does not go to Fort McHenry, but is located in the same general area). How exciting it would be to go through two tunnels in the same afternoon!!!
So I was closely perusing the map, and as I squinted at the small print thereupon, I spotted something remarkable. Within a quarter of an inch (I write in loving memory of my paternal grandma’s navigation to Hays, Kansas) of the far end of the Harbor Tunnel was the “Lazaretto Point Lighthouse (replica).” WOW!!! A lighthouse!!! How fun!!! Although this one did say “replica” in parentheses, and I didn’t know what that meant, when I mentioned to my chauffeur the possibility of actually seeing a lighthouse – which would be a first for each of us – she was all game to go find it.
It appeared that the lighthouse (replica) would be accessible by taking the first post-tunnel exit off I-895 and looping down onto Keith Avenue. However, as is often the case on glorious expeditions, this was MUCH more easily said than done. We did exit as indicated, but Keith was nowhere to be found. We found ourselves in an industrial section of town, replete with warehouses, long brick buildings, potholed roads, and railroad tracks. The roads had clearly been torn up by the weight of many massive trucks, and we sometimes bounced so hard that portions of my anatomy and portions of Katie’s car’s suspension complained.
Keith, Keith, O where are you, Keith? No one knew, but it seemed that no matter which way we turned or which road we followed, we ended up either going in circles or running into dead ends. We spent quite a bit of time thoroughly investigating both Holabird Avenue and Broening Highway. Neither of those roads makes circles on the map, but they both make eternal and concentric circles on the ground. Furthermore, Broening Highway eventually comes to an abrupt dead end – at the water.
The odd thing was that in all this circumnavigating, we never saw a lighthouse. Really now, how can you lose a lighthouse?!? I had assumed this one would be easy to find because it would be (A) tall, (B) alone, and (C) at the water’s edge. Isn’t that how lighthouses are supposed to be? My parents have seen and toured some lighthouses, and I’m pretty sure that most of them have met all three of those conditions (BTW, one of my secret ambitions is to actually spend a night in a real live lighthouse. I think that would be just super nifty!), but this lighthouse (replica) was playing hard-to-get and winning handily.
I am not one to give up easily. I have even been known to persevere for something I don’t even care about, just on principle, but I really cared about seeing the Lazaretto Point Lighthouse (replica)! After all, we had come so far, and we HAD to be tantalizingly close; I was just not willing to give up now. Thankfully, Katie is equipped with an equal level of persistence, and she was willing to keep driving in circles till we either found it, or found that the map was wrong and it didn’t exist. I did not even want to entertain that depressing possibility.
So we circled and backtracked and did it all over and over two or three or six more times, and suddenly and for no good reason Katie landed us on Keith Avenue. I am pretty sure that it had been suddenly air-dropped from a Soviet satellite because we had surely been over that real estate thoroughly, but there we were on Keith, and I was intensely focused.
Do please remember that we were driving through the armpit of industrial Baltimore, on the backside of many multiple loading docks, railroad side branches, warehouses, and trucks. In fact, at one point, we had passed a lot where dozens of containers (those things that get loaded onto the backs of eighteen-wheelers) were stacked three high!
“OK, OK, OK. Keith is going to make a sharp turn to the right. . . yes. . . see? . . just up ahead. . . and when it turns to the right. . . oh! . . . slow down. . . when it turns to the right, we should look back to the left, and there should be the. . . ”
How Katie was driving and turning right and staying on the road – that probably had railroad tracks running down the middle of it – while looking over her shoulder to the left, I’m not sure, but the road curved right, and she looked left and said, “I see it!”
“You do??? Where? OH!!! THERE IT IS!!! WOW!! A REAL LIVE LIGHTHOUSE!!!”
And sure enough, there amidst the trucks and containers and fences and railroad stuff, in the middle of an asphalt sea, crammed between various security shacks and other ramshackle sign-in buildings, was the Lazaretto Point Lighthouse (replica). We had found the beast! He wasn’t very tall; maybe about 30 feet. He certainly wasn’t alone, and he wasn’t really even at the water’s edge. But he was a lighthouse (replica), and I can’t tell you how proud and happy we were to have found him at last. We parked illegally – because there was no legal place to park, it being Saturday and everything locked, chained, and barb-wired – and walked down the road to the end thereof in an effort to get close enough to take a picture.
The setting was a really, really scummy location for a lighthouse, and, being intensely curious as to why on earth there would be a lighthouse (replica) in such a location, Research Consultant promised to google it when we got home. We did, indeed to do that, and if you are as curious as we were, you can read more about the history of the Larazetto Point Lighthouse and see pictures of its replica here.
Being of short stature – and some of us can relate – the lighthouse (replica) is virtually buried by all the surrounding stuff, but what was really neat was that after ALL that time and ALL that driving and ALL those miles and ALL the circling around and backtracking we had done since leaving Fort McHenry a few hours before, when we stood at the lighthouse (replica) and looked across the water, there was Fort McHenry, the very fort! And flying high and proud above it was THE VERY massive fifteen-star flag that Katie and I had personally unfolded and held taut and helped raise at noon.
So we stood at a lighthouse (replica) and looked across the water and saw “our own” beloved flag at Fort McHenry, still waving o’er the land of the free and the home of the brave. Mr. Key, we get it! WOW! What a grand and patriotic experience!