Two months ago we planned this camping trip to Mt. Nebo. It’s a place that holds many special memories for Scott and me. We have been there quite a few times through the years, for romantic getaways in state park cabins, for day trips with groups from church in Little Rock, and—some ten years ago—for a camping trip in a tornado with our young kids.
Usually, when we take road trips, I drive while Scott works (to pay for the trip), and this time, he ended up having an added incentive to work from the passenger seat. We planned to leave home at midday Thursday, camp Thursday, Friday, and Saturday nights, and return home late Sunday. Our camper is quite wonderful; big, roomy, very well-equipped, and most importantly, “up.” I deal with the inside of the camper. Actually, it’s probably more accurate to say that I supervise Andrew’s dealing with the inside of the camper. He is quite possessive of it, always cleaning straightening, and organizing it; actions for which I am very thankful.
But the point is that I don’t deal with the outside of the camper. Things like power cords and hoses and awnings (of the attached type) and leveling blocks and support legs. . . those are all clearly male responsibilities.
So Scott had initially wanted to leave at 11:00 AM, but Andrew and I had church responsibilities from 8:00 AM to 11:00 AM. Scott therefore declared that we would leave at 1:00 PM. When Andrew and I got home at 11:00 AM, I asked Scott for confirmation of his departure plans. He said that he would work till noon, then pack and eat, and we would leave at 1:15 PM. He said that while he worked, Andrew would be loading the camper. I then asked him if Andrew knew what the specifics were of what he was to be loading, and he said yes. While I didn’t in any way think Scott was lying to me, I was pretty sure that Andrew didn’t know what all Scott wanted him to pack and therefore wasn’t actually packing it, so I went out to the camper where Andrew was replacing the rear inner tube on his bike, told him that Dad said he was packing the camper, and asked if that was the case. He told me that he wasn’t packing the camper, that he didn’t know that Dad wanted him to be doing anything in particular, and that he didn’t know what specifics Dad wanted him to be doing. To which I replied that it would be advisable for him to go talk with Dad. Which he did.
Now, some things are clearly known by all parties. Admittedly, the camper being “up,” it’s much easier to store, inventory, and load items therein than it was in the pop-up. However, no matter how much inventorying and hauling and packing and loading is done in advance by Andrew and me, it ALWAYS takes a bare minimum of two hours from the time Scott engages in the process till we leave. Often it’s more like three hours. So, if Scott was going to eat and pack his own personal stuff, beginning at noon (and then probably go teck a shah-wah), he wouldn’t be ready face the camper tasks until quarter till one, which means we wouldn’t leave the house till nearly 3:00 PM. And it’s at least a three-hour drive to Mt Nebo.
Now early in the morning, Scott had told me to take the Honda to the church because he needed the Durango to take the camper to the tire repair place in conjunction with a foot appointment he had at 9:30 AM. Fully aware that the camper wouldn’t be going anywhere till (we assumed at that point) 1:00 PM, I told him that was fine and took the Honda.
When we got home from church, Scott told us that he had not taken the camper to the tire repair place and that we would just go on our way out of town. Since I—the Wife Who Does Not Deal With the Outside of the Camper— had no idea why one would take a camper to a tire repair place anyway, I said, “OK, that sounds like a plan.” However, I did make a mental note that if we did indeed leave the house at 1:15 PM (highly unlikely) and then stopped at the tire repair place, we wouldn’t actually get on the road till sometime after 2:00 PM, and it would be supper time (and possibly getting dark) by the time we got to our destination.
We left the house a very few minutes before 3:00 PM, and on the way I found out why we were going to the tire repair place. It is not uncommon for me to be the last one to know what’s going on. The camper has four wheels, two on each side, and it seems that the tire on one of those on the right had a slow leak. It had been aired up sometime (a few (days? hours?) earlier, yet was still low. Scott wanted to get that tire repaired before we hit the road for a 280-mile round trip that would involve pulling the camper up and down a 1500-foot “mountain,” possibly in the dark.
We hadn’t been at Taney County Tire for ten minutes when the mechanic guy delivered the verdict. That tire was separating. As were the other three tires. And all four tires were vintage 1998, and tires are only supposed to be left on a camper for five years. Well, it is a 1999 camper; these were clearly the originals. Moreover, since the camper is so old, the tires are of a size that isn’t used any more, so Taney County Tire doesn’t stock them. But not to worry; they could get them in by 9:30 AM or 10:00 AM Friday.
Scott thanked the mechanic guy and said he’d call sometime to get the tires replaced. And Andrew and I did a couple of double-takes. Could he possibly be planning to drive to Mt. Nebo and back on 16 year-old dry-rotted tires?!? Well, yes. He said that the tires had probably been separated when we bought the camper two years ago, and we hadn’t driven it that many places, and we were already reserved for Thursday night at Mt. Nebo, and the tires would be fine, so we were going to go.
Now, we have driven Highway 7 many times. Not nearly as many as Highway 65, but enough that we both know full well exactly how narrow, curvy, and hilly it is. And isolated. And dark at night. The plan had been for me to drive to Russellville while Scott worked, and then he would drive up and down the mountain. However, although I decided I could get OK with trusting Scott to drive Highway 7 in the dark pulling a camper on separated tires, I was not willing to do the driving myself. As I prepared to tell him this, Jeff, the owner, came out to talk to him. They looked and talked for quite a while and when he got back in the car, Scott said, “So. . . do you think we should wait till tomorrow?”
Rather than jumping up and down and screaming jubilantly, I restrained my affirmative response and answered calmly, “Yes. With the dark and the curves and the hills, that sounds smart.”
He was SO terribly disappointed, but that’s what we did. We left the camper there, went home, unloaded the stuff we needed for the night, ate chili dogs, and played Ticket to Ride. Friday morning, we returned to Taney County Tire and traded a significant amount of money for our camper, and headed out, me driving.
Highway 7 passes through Newton County, the most scenic piece of real estate God created in a several state area, and located in Newton County is the town of Cowell. Well, I have been told that that is the case. I have never seen Cowell, but Scott assures me it exists. Although this may seem to be a totally random fact, it really does matter to the story.
To get to Mt. Nebo, we would be driving through numerous north Arkansas hamlets and only one town of any size, Russellville. Russellville is located on Interstate 40, some 90 miles west of Little Rock. No offense intended to any natives, but Russellville is not a destination; it’s just a place to pass through on your way to wherever you are going in northwest Arkansas or possibly southwest Missouri. When we lived in Little Rock, we would often pass through Russellville on the way to Mt. Nebo or Castle Bluff or even War Eagle. And whenever one goes through Russellville, it is absolutely essential to stop at Feltner’s Whatta-Burger. We have been eating there since before we were married, which would be some 28 years. In fact, we have never gone through Russellville without stopping at Whatta-Burger because, as previously mentioned, it is, quite simply, the ONLY reason to stop in Russellville. I was looking forward to re-visiting our old stomping grounds on Mt. Nebo (we know that mountain and every one of its features, trails, and amenities VERY well), but I would also have been quite willing to simply drive to Russellville and turn around and come home, as long as I had eaten at Whatta-Burger.
Back in the day when Scott did virtually all the driving, when traveling from Little Rock, we’d eat at Whatta-Burger and then go north on Highway 7. Having stuffed myself silly with a Whatta-Cheese, innumerable fries and a sweet limeade, I would pretty consistently fall asleep about 20 minutes north of Dover, probably in the rough vicinity of Lurton (where Highway 16 cuts off west to Deer, Nail, and Swain), and I would then be snoozing when we zinged through Cowell. This was such a pattern that Scott would tease me about not being able to stay awake to see Cowell. In fact, the family joke whenever I happen to get drowsy in the car is, “We must be getting close to Cowell.” Cowell is a place that I don’t think I’ve ever actually seen, but about which I have heard very much commentation.
Therefore on a fine fall Friday morning, when I was wide awake and driving TOWARD Whatta-Burger, I was really eager to see this unincorporated spot in the road. I figured it would be a lot like downtown Walnut Shade, where we live. = ) I was tooling merrily along, slinging the big rig behind me, when I suddenly saw a sign that said, “Cowell, 3 miles.” Yee ha! I was ready.
But I never saw Cowell. There was no town and no sign, and I was so very deeply disappointed. Sigh.
We enjoy a great meal at Whatta-Burger, we had a grand time on the mountain, and if I can carve out time, I have plenty of blog fodder from that 48-hour period. But on the way home on Sunday afternoon – and we had just eaten regular sandwiches for lunch at the campsite, for crying out loud – Scott was driving (he brought us safely down off the mountain, and I’ll just say that the camper’s back bumper hangs a bit lower than one would think) and I was getting sleepy. However, I was determined to stay awake to Cowell! Shoot! I had missed it once, but I sure wasn’t going to miss it again!
We kept talking, mainly so I could stay awake. Dover. . . Lurton. . . surely it would show up soon. I even got out our old, torn Arkansas state highway map (paper, yes, I know I am painfully old school) and put my finger on the little burg so I could calculate the remaining miles and make sure to see it.
Well, I must say that it was all I could have hoped for. When I finally spied the Cowell sign, I was honestly reminded of that famous line, “Ocean in view. Oh, the joy!” Shocked and slightly embarrassed, I said to Scott, “Wow. This is all new territory. Everything around here is unrecognizable. I’ve never seen this place before.” Of course, there was really nothing to see; just one house on the left, as I recall. We whizzed by at 55 mph, but after 28 years of not seeing Cowell, I thought I really should maximize the experience; I’d look backwards and see where the southbound Cowell sign was. I figured it would probably be only a half mile from the northbound one, much like the Walnut Shade signs, but – shock and horrors – THERE WAS NO SOUTHBOUND SIGN! Not at all. Not after a half mile, a mile, three miles, ten miles. I was terribly disappointed. In fact, I am now thinking that I really need to write the Arkansas Highway Department and point out this inexcusable omission; as it stands now, Cowell is a one-way town. Amazing. You can only enter it from the south.
However, I truly was thrilled (at having finally SEEN Cowell) and vindicated (at NOT having missed the non-existent southbound sign), and so I had loads of very satisfying closure and then got to doze – with the exception of providing commentation on the famous two-story outhouse at Booger Hollow and then losing two games of cuppers at Rotary Ann – the rest of the way home.
Note: Time fails me to mention my numerous TTR victories (including one in a high wind); our 3.5 mile rim trail hike in two sections; the green snake; the impossibility of accurately discerning the relative rawness or doneness of chicken shish-kabobs in the dark; our 4 mile bench trail hike; the huge and very noisy crowd around a campfire 15 feet away from us until the park ranger chased them all away at 10:00 PM, and the fact that if you do indeed remember to pack the dryer sheets but then manage to forgetfully leave them in the camper during not one, not two, but three separate hikes, all of which feature great clouds of gnats, then you will be reminded of Josiah’s famous dance routine with its accompanying classic exclamation, “They’re in my eyes, my nose, my ears, my mouth!!!”